My Humidity controller finally arrived this morning so I’ve started wiring up the control box.
I’ve finally found a bit of time to get my fans installed in the fridge.
I’m still waiting on the humidity controller to arrive from China. Everything else took about 8 days to arrive, but the humidity controller has so far been 36 days – The tracking number shows it in NZ now, so it should arrive very soon.
I’ve lined one of the holes with a short length of PVC pipe, the other has a longer piece to reach lower to the bottom of the Fridge section – The longer length “sucks” air from the bottom of the fridge, effectively trying to fight convection and move the cold air from the lowest point back to the highest point.
When I was investigating the wiring diagram of my fridge freezer, I was also trying to find out if there is anything important in the divider between the fridge and freezer. Based on the diagrams I was confident that there was nothing in this area so I was free to drill holes.
I opted to put one hole in the front left and one in the back right.
The fridge I’m using for my cheese fridge is a fridge freezer, this means that during normal operation, the two boxes are different temperatures – around 20 degrees C.
I want both the fridge and freezer to operate at the same temperature, so first job is to find out exactly how the cooling system works. I’m not talking about the Vapor-compression refrigeration process, but the specific details about how this specific model works.
The circuit diagram is a good starting point:
Wow, almost six months since my last post! Yes, I’ve been busy.
I’ve recently started making cheese. Generally you start off making soft cheeses like Brie & Camembert. After a little while these cheeses no longer do it for you and you move onto the gateway cheeses such as Gouda. Before too long, you’re an addict and you need something harder – Yep, I’m talking Cheddar and Parmesan.
Note: This fix is NOT due to a fault of the Petit Studio Raspberry Pi Camera extension kit, it’s due to the use of cheap HDMI leads.
I brought some Petit Studio Raspberry Pi HDMI camera extenders from Tindie. These boards passively convert the 15 pin ribbon cable into a convenient HDMI connector so the cable can be extended using HDMI cables. It doesn’t convert the signal to HDMI, it simply uses the HDMI cable as an extension. Sidenote: The $5 shipping only took 4 days to get to New Zealand from Japan!
I brought some cheap 3m HDMI cables from a supplier on TradeMe and thought I was all set.
It turns out not all HDMI cables are made the same. The cables I brought work perfectly between a PC and monitor, but not at all on the Tindie camera extender.
A quick Duck Duck Go (That’s so much harder to use as a verb than Google) and I found a fix – There are meant to be shields for each data pair but in cheaper cables these are not connected. It’s an easy fix, just use the metal shield of the HDMI plug as ground…..
Following on from my previous post working out the EP Solar Tracer serial protocol, I’ve got code working on a Raspberry Pi. It’s even validating the CRC checksum.
I’m currently involved in a project to set up a solar powered wireless station and wanted to remotely monitor the battery charge process. I looked into a number of charge controllers to see if any of them could be connected to a computer. Many of the controllers have ethernet and built in web servers, but these come at a cost.
The (relatively) cheap chinese made EP Solar Tracer MPPT Solar charge controllers have an RJ45 interface for an MT5 remote display which means that there must be some way to get data out of the charge controller.
If you’re after a binary of dump1090 for the Raspberry Pi without having to build it, here’s a compiled binary for you.
I built it on Arch linux, but it also works on Raspbian, or likely any other Arm processor as well.
It’s version 1.09.0608.14 of the MalcolmRobb fork
You can download it from here: (more…)